Vicksburg MS to Natchitoches, La and around

A couple days'  at Vicksburg reminded me how much I need to reread history about the Civil War.  We toured the Vicksburg, MS  battlefield which was a turning point in the Civil War, along with Gettysburg.  The Union strategy to capture Vicksburg and  the access of the mighty Mississippi would isolate and cripple the south.  We spent most of the afternoon driving around and walking through parts of the entire Battlefield.  All along there are markers to the various infantries, cavalries, from the states and commemorative readings about the soldiers and their commanders. 

Vicksburg Battlefield

One  big surprise was the USS Cairo museum,
It is pronounced Karo here.  This was a Union gunboat, torpedoed
by the Confederacy.  It was sunk in the Mississippi until 1964
when it was hoisted out and restored.  Exhibited here at Vicksburg

Jerry amidst some cannons at Vicksburg

While Georgia is the birthplace of Coca Cola, I learned that it was first bottled  in Vicksburg at the Biedenharn Candy Company as they expanded their business.  Today there is a  small Coca Cola bottling museum in the building which is right near the Smith Drugstore.



Dual bridges new and old across the mighty Mississippi at Vicksburg

While there is plenty to learn traveling around this country there is always fun too.

This Vicksburg Merchant  decorates the outside with party girls
I had to join them

From Vicksburg we  drove on to Natchitoches, LA. home of the famous fried meat pies which we have enjoyed for appetizers and a dinner.  They are similar to an empanada,  a mixture of ground beef, pork, and seasonings  in a pastry similar to pie dough which is all deep friend in peanut oil.  Maybe not health food, but it's a vacation so we indulge. That's the beauty of travel, eating things we don't find at home.  Today it was fried alligatior bites at a pub for mid day snack. 

Canadians plaque to  Natchitoches

We depart this lovely area and best little town of  Natchitoches tomorrow for Marksville, LA.  I say it like it looks, natch--ee-toe--cheez....while the locals say Nakatesh....I bring smiles to their faces when they hear me and I get that puzzled look on my face when I hear them.  This is a different dialect a combination from the early first French settlers to the Indians, Spaniards, Africans, etc.  So the  talk is different.  The area was first settled by the French in 1717 or thereabouts.  Many here have that gorgeous French Cajun Creole look, but there are many retirees here from all over the country, making it a very comfortable place for us.  It is comfortable to be with others who relocate in retirement.  I could easily live here except for the hot humid summers, and the bugs.  Then I'd be happy with MN or north.

Natichitoches from  near the post office.

Steel House in town

 The movie Steel Magnolias was filmed here and the southern atmosphere, the lovely ornate iron scroll work around the homes and the balconies show the French like influence.  Our last visit to Natchitoches was in  December 2004, and the traffic along the  Cane river Front street has increased a lot, indicating an increased  population or excess traffic for the old brick two lane streets to handle. This is a tourist mecca with the multitude of shops offering all sorts of miscellany.  On the other hand,  it reflects the economy of the country with many  places closed, out of business and many others for sale. As one shop owner who has been here for  20 years, relocated from Illinois shared, the last two years have  not been good.  The cost of  gas has decreased the number of people driving and  traveling.  It is also a college town, Northwester University--we seem to be attracted to these college towns, smaller in size and lots of cultural activities.

Tulip trees have  almost finished their spring bloom

We ventured  out along the Cane River drive today south on Louisiana Hwy 1 and stopped along the way to see the new beautiful brick homes, Plantation Development, very nice spread out homes several with motor homes in the driveways and many with  boats.  This area is a recreation dream for  fishing and water sports and many live along the Cane River with their own boat docks and what I can only describe as boat porches.  This is the off season for the historic plantations, some are part of the National Park Service along the Cane River Drive. 

Melrose Plantation main house

Clementine Hunter

One print of Clementine's

The Cane River plantations are very different from the famous Nottoway and fancier  antebellum plantations we toured years back out of New Orleans.  These of Cane River have a different harder worked  perspective and are not set up for tour buses.  There are many old building all around, the smoke houses, the weaving houses, the cooking houses, the bindery, etc in addition to the outlying slave quarters.  Our  primary stop was the romantic Melrose Plantation, famous in the life of Clementine Hunter and the legend of  Marie Coincoin who was  born in 1742, a  slave who  became the matriarch of a family of  14 children and the founder of a unique colony of people whose descendants today proudly tell of their heritage.  Marie and several of her children were sold to Thomas  Metoyer who later  freed her and her children.   Between 1794 and 1803 she and her children received multiple land grants and built the Yucca house and other structures. After 1884, Melrose Plantation became a hub of art and education under the ownership of John Hampton Henry and Miss Cammie Garrett Henry. Miss Cammie, as she became known, made Melrose a haven for artists and writers.  At the time there was a field hand and cook at Melrose who also became known as a renowned artist. Clementine Hunter, one of the south’s most primitive artists, began painting the people, life, and scenes of Cane River. Hunter was in her 50′s when she began painting and continued until a few months before her death in 1988. Clementine is Louisiana’s most famous folk artist, and her paintings are on display at the plantation. I had heard of Clementine and purchased a small print of one of her works at a town shop.  Clementine's story is a significant part of history today especially during  Black History Month; she began to paint from memory at night  when everyone else slept.  Looking at her characters evokes a range of emotions and multiple feelings. 

Weaving house at Melrose

Bindery House which is now the Gift Shop at Melrose

Mardi Gras  parade in Clouterville, LA

   We met a group of locals who enticed us to drive on to Clouterville which they pronounce "Clooteeeville"  and enjoy some of their local Mardi Gras parade.  Like  small town events all over the country it was fun.  The kids particularly were having a great fun time, like these two below mid air stepping to catch their place on the float.    Oh the energy!

We are late for our float!